Kawan, London W1: ‘This dish is bound to work, we think. But it doesn’t. It’s hideous’ – restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants

The meal is like being handed a succession of phones showing memes you don’t understandA couple of months ago, Nigel Ng, the Malaysian comedian better known as his alter ego, Uncle Roger, opened his first UK restaurant in the heart… The meal is like being handed a succession of phones showing memes you don’t understandA couple of months ago, Nigel Ng, the Malaysian comedian better known as his alter ego, Uncle Roger, opened his first UK restaurant in the heart…